December 21, 2009

Trujillo Ruins, Part 2


We followed up last week's visit to Chan Chan with a trip to the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (Sun and Moon Temples).  The structures predate Chan Chan by approximately 1,000 years, and were built by the Moche people.  The Huaca del Sol has not gone under much excavation, so there is not much to see except for the exterior.  As with Chan Chan, much of it has been destroyed by the elements (only about 25% of the original structure is still intact), but the sheer size of what remains is impressive.  Our guidebook gave us the impression we could walk around, or even on, the temple, but our guide must have not read that book because he seemed confused when I asked for permission to get closer.  We were limited to viewing it from a distance.
The Huaca de la Luna (pictured top left, at the foot of Cerra Blanca, or White Mountain) is the most interesting ruin we've seen so far on our trip (which also includes Ingapirca in Ecuador - we didn't bother writing an entry on that, so that should give you an idea of how interesting it was to us).  The temple consists of five major layers that were built over 600 years.  Because of these layers, parts of the structure remain very well preserved despite the fact it is built with adobe bricks.  The last layer has largely been washed away, but the others are in a constant state of excavation, so that if we were to return in a few years, we'd be able to see different areas of the temple.  In contrast to Chan Chan, the administrators' goal is preservation and not restoration, so everything, including the nearly 2,000 year old murals, is original.

The only downside of the tour was an annoying Brit who was intent on making life difficult for the guide, and then did not bother to tip him.  There was a French couple with us and they actually behaved themselves pretty well.

Huaca del Sol from the top of the Huaca de la Luna (excavation sites in the foreground)



2,000 year old murals in the Huaca de la Luna



Painted friezes on the massive north wall


The north wall (and me, for scale)


One last mural

4 comments:

  1. These friezes are way more detailed than the ones at Chan Chan. The Moche people had to be more expressive and artistic, even by 1,000 years ahead, than those who at Chan Chan. Very interesting!

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  2. You need to let the guide book know just what the hell is going on. Marcia really enjoyed being right there at the many ruins we visited. Oh well. And the Brit, we have dealt with them also. The Chinese and Asians are the worst. Well enjoy your next travel and we will live through your travels.
    Marry Christmas.
    Lee

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  3. It is interesting the friezes are so much more elaborate than any we have seen in Inca or Mayan ruins.The only thing that comes close to it from our experience were some great friezes in Tikal-the most famous one in Guatemala. The trip to that was fascinating, miles and miles on what passed for a road -- the bumpiest ride I think I have ever taken, then this fabulous ruin - Tikal, amidst the amazing poverty of today in that area. Years ago when I was in Cairo, I will never forget riding a camel around Giza and seeing the wonders that were created there so many years ago, and then staring down at present day Cairo, and wondering how it was possible that the current day inhabitants were descended from the people who constructed such amazing monuments with such scant resources. Enough, travel on, dear ones, we love you. Thanks for sharing so prolifically.

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  4. Marcias comments are interesting. You do wonder what happened to progress in those cultures. Maybe they started using a fiat currency - Ha!

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