Cuzo is the most visually attractive city we have visited so far. Its mix of Incan and colonial Spanish heritages have created a unique architectural style, helping the city land on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list, and the background of lush green Andean mountains certainly do not detract from its allure. There are ornate churches built on massive Incan wall foundations, narrow cobblestone streets leading up to the hills, and a number of nicely landscaped plazas surrounded by well-preserved buildings that are hundreds of years old. (Unfortunately, due to our camera problems, I only have pictures of Cuzco taken from a hill and nothing from ground level). It sounds like the kind of city I would love, and I expected to love it,
ranking it #2 in my pre-trip city list.
However, the character of the city fails to live up to its facade. It is completely overrun by tourists (including way more dreadlock-wearing gringos than I care to see), and as a result the touts (people soliciting business for hotels/hostels, restaurants and tours) and street vendors are plentiful and merciless. In a typical ten minute span, Magge and I would get hounded no less than fifteen times to buy something. The things for which you are most likely to get harassed walking around Cuzco:
- Getting treated to the ancient Incan arts of Swedish and Thai massages (these touts could smell Magge 100 yards away)
- Taking your picture with an Andean woman in traditional Andean clothing with the traditional Andean llama, in their traditional habitat of a busy city street corner
- Buying the same "original paintings" that ten other vendors will harass you to buy in about five minutes
- Eating dinner, even if you just came out of a restaurant
- Overpaying for a cramped tour
Furthermore, nearly every building in the historical core of the city either houses a hotel/hostel, a restaurant, a tour agency, an internet café or a souvenir shop (ranging from the cheap trinket variety to the very expensive knit blanket stores and legitimate art galleries). Walking around, I just didn't feel like I was in a real city, as I did in Quito or, to a lesser extent, Cuenca and Arequipa. It felt more like walking through a theme park.
Cuzco, you're a beautiful woman, but your voice and laugh are annoying, and you eat with your mouth open. I like you, but I don't love you.
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Cuzco is a beautiful woman, and now that you mention specifically the type of bombarding "touts" you are correct, we experienced that also, but I just ignored them. I guess we go to more "touristy" places than you two adventurous souls, and we just figure it goes with the territory. Perhaps we can experience together some very "untouristy" places, a lovely thought. Unfortunately our presence with you might be a tout magnetic -- consider the demographic in which we fall. Ah well, glad you are warm and safe and dry. I assume your bedroom is filled with laundry! Love ya guys
ReplyDeleteYes our experience was similar. Beautiful camera shots once you crop out the vendors and beggars.
ReplyDeleteIt was a nice central place from which to make day trips. The food was good not great and we enjoyed walking the streets, pulling our hats down so they could not completely tell how green we were. I must admit I did stand out loudly. I just scream money tourist, beg him. There was a certain comfortable feeling about returning to Cuzco each night, then to start off in a different direction the next day. The altitude did bother me some but the good part was it only took 1 glass of wine. Casablanca it is not but we always have Paris.
Cheers you guys!
Nothing worse than when the anticipation does not meet the realization. It's too bad that such an impressive place should be hampered with so much showy and obtrusive attractions and markets. I guess the less touristic places are the places to go and visit and fully appreciate its splendor without any commercial bombardment.
ReplyDeleteMany more splendid places are waiting to be explored. I know you will discover lots of neat areas that are not easily accessible and crowded by the hoi polloi.
I must say Marcia you are one quick cookie!
And Lee too!
ReplyDeleteHaving things worth seeing is certainly a double-edged sword. Every city we've been has had its share of touts, but Cuzco was by far the worst.
ReplyDeleteYou better buy yourselves a camera - beautiful women are rare and need to be photographed. Who cares about annoying laughs - can't hear them from here anyway.
ReplyDeleteLove dad
I tried sending an answer to Maggie and Jeff, however I have no account or whatever and it wouldn’t go through.
ReplyDeleteThis is a Cuzco I didn’t know as 55 years ago tourists and gingos were few and far between.
By the way the word “GRINGO” was coined by the Mexican people after the US Army, dressed in green uniforms invaded Mexico, to show their displeasure they started to shout” Green go home” and from this, the word “GRINGO” emerged. In South America it applies mainly to Americans.
I would be very interested in their report on Lake Titicaca, the straight if Ticina, Tiahuanaco and Copacabana. Totora boats and Isla del Sol, where Inti (The sun God) created Manco Kapac and Mama Ojlio (Adam and Eve to us pale eyes) the first two Incas on earth.
All the best
Herb & Rae
Hi Herb & Rae, glad to see you checking out the website. We are currently in the Lake Titicaca region right now. We'll be staying on the Peru side, though, as Bolivia started charging a "reciprocity" fee for entry and it's too steep for us just for a few days of travel. We'll post something on the lake, as well as on some ruins around Cuzco, in the next week.
ReplyDeleteHerb,
ReplyDeleteNext time you want to post, write your post and then where you see
1) Comment as: Select profile click on arrow and click on Name/URL and type your name then click continue (you don't have to write anything in the URL)
2) Click on Post Comment once and click on it again. You will be asked to type in the word verification in the box. Click on Post Comment again and voilà your precious words and insightful observations will be posted for everyone to enjoy, especially Jeffrey and Magge.