May 28, 2010

More Angkor

After two days exploring the main Angkor Archaeological Park, yesterday we went a little further afield to visit two more sites.  The first was Banteay Srei, a small but beautifully restored temple.  The scale compared to giants like Angkor Wat and Preah Khan might be subdued, but the attention to detail is not, and the temple is often referred to as the jewel of Khmer art.

The second site we visited was Kbal Spean, a riverbed that has many Hindu carvings from the 11th to the 13th century.  The carvings are divided into three categories: lingas (phallic representations of the deity Shiva), yonis (female counterpart to the linga, representing Shakti and Devi), and more complex Hindu motifs.  As you can guess from the English translation of the site's name, River of a Thousand Lingas, the phallic carvings are the most prevalent.  The lingas and yonis were believed to have fertilized the water as it made its way to the fields.  We're here at the end of dry season, so the river was nearly dry.  It would have been neat to see the sculptures through running water, but at least we got a clear view of them.

We made a quick stop on our way back to town at the Landmine Museum.  This country continues to be plagued by mines laid during the Vietnam War and the subsequent thirty years of civil war involving the Khmer Rouge.  Cambodia is still one of the most heavily mined countries in the world, with an estimated 5 million or more active landmines, in addition to a myriad of other unexploded ordnance.  The museum was founded by a former Khmer Rouge child soldier that laid down many mines, but has since defused an estimated 50,000 pieces of unexploded ordnance.  It was fairly small, but still worth the time to see what many Cambodians still have to deal with.

More pictures in the full post.
Banteay Srei:

Yet another pose by a doorway

Carved pediment

Cutting grass the hard way


Kbal Spean:
Reclining Vishnu

Inspecting a headless Vishnu and a yoni

One yoni, many lingas

This waterfall is a little underwhelming during the dry season

Landmine Museum:
Defused landmines

Defused rockets

Many of these locations still have live explosives

7 comments:

  1. I absolutely love the carvings. In Central and South America all the sites we have explored had so few carvings, these are really cool. I am so there. WOW! The land mines are so horrific, I had no idea there were so many.

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  2. I also love the carvings. The most I have seen anywhere. I remember during the Viet Nam War that there were many land mines but was amazed at the map of them.
    Another wonderful post.

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  3. What a contrast. The greatness of the carvings and the tragedy of the land mines. Sad sort of. But I have to be happy with my own little musings, because I'll not know what God is thinking.

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  4. You guys are very prolific and extremely generous in sharing your traveling experiences with us. It's as if we are just by your side.
    Simply wonderful!
    Can you imagine if they had spent all that time working on the infrastructure and beauty of this country instead of landmine how more wonderful it would be?

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  5. Jeffrey,this does not relate to your posts, but I went fishing at the beach today and guess what I find? A new kind of fish! It's called a Nudybrach(Noo-dee-brak)It looks like a huge snail!So, back to the post.On the "Inspecting a headless vishnu and a yoni"on the rock behind Magge, Is there supposed to be a carving of a dear?Did you ever see any active land mines?(Don't mines explode when you toush it?)

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  6. Very cool, Liam. When we went diving at Sipadan, our divemaster said we'd be able to see nudibranches but I didn't know what they looked like so I don't know if I ever saw one.

    The carving behind Magge is Vishnu, and he's lost his head with age. You can still see the four arms, though. We didn't see any active mines, that we know of. The heavily touristed areas of the country have been mostly demined. They do explode when touched. Most of them are designed to severely maim instead of kill bc of the thinking that a badly wounded soldier costs more than a dead one. Sadly, that has meant there are a lot of Cambodian citizens who a severely disfigured and handicapped.

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  7. I could've sworn I posted on this blog yesterday! Weird, it must have no gone through. The carvings are absolutely amazing. If I tried carving a rock, this would happen -> ....... (the rock would crumble). Don't get swept away by the waterfall!

    <3 Kiersten

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